2014 Kia Forte: MECHANIC’S SPECIAL - READ CAREFULLY

The Good: One owner 2014 Kia Forte LX 6-speed manual. 320,000km but full-synthetic Mobil 1 or equivalent since first oil change. Runs great with the exception noted below. No significant oil use between oil changes at 6 months intervals, no leaks. Car has been reliable and basically bullet-proof except for routine maintenance until now. New Nokian WRG5s last October. Tie rods, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluids 18 months ago. New front brakes 12 months ago, rear brakes 6 months ago. Note: No A/C, remote entry or cruise control on this car.

THE BAD: The car has developed an intermittent electrical issue that I have, thus far, been unable to identify. Car, as noted, is running great, but at random intervals ranging from days to weeks, will have a sudden discharge of the battery while driving that results in voltage dropping, in minutes, below the level required to operate the electronics and eventually the ignition system, resulting in the car first loosing it’s power steering and then stalling. Interestingly, after a quick reboot from a booster pack, it starts immediately and will then run normally for another indeterminate period of time. Alternator and voltage regulator have been changed 3 times, battery replaced, to no avail. No burning smells or burnt fuses indicative of a short-circuit. Grounds have all been checked. No error codes are being generated and, even more interestingly, no low voltage indication while battery is rapidly discharging. While driving, OBD 2 indicates ECU voltages ranging between 12.6 and 14.8-ish. Haven’t had the discharge while driving with the OBD, but have observed it idling in the garage with a multimeter attached to the battery terminals. First indication is usually Electric Power Steering warning light, followed by all other warning lights. Then dash and radio start flashing off and on as voltage drops.

Possibly faulty ECU but that is a $1911 part with a 6 to 8 week backorder. Other possible causes intermittent fault EPS module or a fault in EPS electric motor,

I would keep driving this car if I could definitively diagnose this issue, but am not prepared to gamble $2K on an ECU that may or may not fix the issue. But I’ve reached my limit as between the (probably unnecessary) new alternator and battery, I’ve got $1100 into this already without having resolved it. In the hope there is a mechanic out there who can save this car, I’m accepting offers until the end of May.

CAR iS SOLD AS IS WITH KNOWN ELECTRICAL ISSUE AS DESCRIBED AT BUYER”S SOLE RISK.